NATIONAL: The Rosemount Australian Fashion Week schedule has again come under fire – this time from within the event organisers’ own ranks.
IMG Fashion Asia Pacific stages the annual spring/summer trade showcase annually, with the recent installment taking place from May 3 to 7. IMG designer relations manager Michaela Griffiths-Leese, a respected industry figure who has worked across the footwear, clothing and accessories sectors, is on maternity leave until the end of 2010.
However, speaking at industry seminar Higher Learning last month, Griffiths-Leese said while Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) plays an important role in the industry, its timing continues to confound industry buyers and designers.
“Rosemount Australian Fashion Week comes around at the end of April, beginning of May – the truth is, it’s at the end of the selling season,” she said.
“The buying season for autumn/winter is July to October and for spring/summer it is January to April. So a lot of buyers have done most of their buying by the time Fashion Week comes around.”
Griffiths-Leese also confirmed the event was out of sync with the international fashion calendar, making it difficult to position as a premiere industry destination.
“I still question it, even Austrade are questioning it,” she said. “Fashion Week internationally finishes in mid-March generally [with New York, London, Milan and Paris] and then ours is six weeks later. At the end of the day we want it to roll out to have this global consistency.”
Leading industry buyers have backed Griffith-Leese’s proposal to move the event to March. Blood Orange director Loren Abood said she had discussed the issue with several Australian designers at the last event. Her Sydney-based boutique stocks labels such as Therese Rawsthorne, Alexander Wang, Gary Bigeni, A.C.P, Lover and Arnsdorf.
“Generally my buying commences early March in Paris and though [moving RAFW] would mean that I’d have a hectic month of considering product and compiling orders, it would be much more efficient,” Abood said.
“Buying for that season drags on for such an extended period with international designers showing in February or early March and Australian designers generally showing in April or May.”
Abood said a tighter showing period would also allow for a better allocation of her budget. Australian designer brands such as Bassike, which show their collection before March, stood to reap the benefits of a fuller budget.
“Personally, I feel that my buying efforts would really benefit from having the showing periods closer together. A concise buying period would also be good for morale – it has the potential to become a little overwhelming at times.”
Online luxury buyer Kath Purkis offered early April as a good alternative for RAFW. Her e-boutique www.leblackbook.com stocks labels such as Ellery, Anna & Boy, Kirrily Johnston, Valerie Tolosa and Fleur Wood.
“Moving RAFW earlier in the year would help sort the designers that have really nailed their production from the designers that are putting the finishing touches on the night before RAFW. As a buyer, it is essential you have designers that are committed to fine tuning production and delivery dates.
“The designers that have their buying appointments early in the year show they are on top of it and ensure buyers have sufficient time to evaluate orders and compare other collections. This enables buyers to make a calculated decision as opposed to small orders after RAFW.” RAFW spring/summer 2011 dates had not yet been released at the time of press.
Assia Benmedjdoub