The new Voluntary Industry Code of Conduct for representation of body image encourages fashion retailers to think liberally when it comes to sizes offered in store. Melinda Oliver explores where the real demand lies.
The finger has been firmly pointed at fashion retailers to take some responsibility for the big social issue of negative body image, particularly among young women. In the recently released Voluntary Industry Code of Conduct, created by the government funded National Advisory Group on Body Image, retailers have been encouraged to offer a wider variety of apparel sizes in store.
“As distributors of fashion products directly to the public, fashion retailers have a unique opportunity to promote positive body image messages in a way that responds to the immediate needs of customers,” it stated.
Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia CEO Jo Kellock said it was a disappointing reflection on industry practices that this suggestion was even necessary.
At its simplest level, it is “commercial suicide” for retailers not to offer a broad array of sizes, she said, and designers should be technically skilled to create garments up to size 18 without altering a style.
“It is all about customer service,” she said. “Retailers at the moment [in this financial climate] are not in a great position to narrow their market.”
Kellock agreed with the principle that when retailers offer a tight size spectrum, it can affect the self-esteem of women who cannot find a suitable product for their shape. In particular, impressionable young women may blame their size, not poor merchandising, for the problem.
Kellock said statistics regarding the most in-demand sizes are hard to accurately document, due to the imbalance of sizes offered by different brands and inconsistent grading.
“A retailer will tell you the best selling size is a 10, but if you are not offering many other sizes, how do you know?” she said.
The Bowerbird fashion agency director Jade Gallenti manages over 450 retail accounts for a number of young women’s brands including Minkpink, Hussy, EvilTwin and Shona Joy.
The labels predominantly offer sizes from eight to 14, with select pieces available in a six. Melbourne-based Gallenti said orders for size 10 to 12 comprise the bulk of business, with demand for size six decreasing over the last couple of years.
She said a common practice is to sell ‘packs’ of sizes, such as the Minkpink pack comprising two size eights, two size 10s, two size 12s and just one size 14.
For brands targeting a more mature consumer, Gallenti said larger sizes generally sell better. Orders for knitwear label Braide usually begin at size 10 and span to 14. Next winter, the label is boosting its offer to include size 16s to increase appeal, particularly with regional retailers that cater to a diverse demographic.
Susie Sharrock agency manager Rochelle Scaife oversees sales for labels such as Alex Perry, Verge, Mila Purdie and Cylk. She also reported that demand for size six is increasingly scarce, while sizes 12 to 14 are the most wanted.
“It differs for ages and product categories,” she said.
“In the past the average order would have been a size 12. For younger labels, the most popular order is a 10.”
Scaife said orders for brands that serve the 35-plus age bracket generally start from size 10. “There is a lot of demand now for size 16 and increasing demand for size 18,” she said.
At the high end, it appears small sizes prevail in demand from retailers. I Heart Agency assistant brand manager Amber D’Enett said buyers ordering premium Australian designer labels mostly order sizes eight to 12, with some size sixes.
D’Enett has observed a shift in the way buyers are ordering sizes, largely influenced by the global financial crisis. She said they are taking more time to assess each individual garment and the type of customer and body shape it will suit, rather than ordering a standard quantity of each size.
The agency represents brands including Dion Lee, Maurie & Eve and Seventh Wonderland. D’Enett said the colour of a garment is also playing a key role in size choices, with flattering tones such as black more likely to be ordered from small to large.
A number of major young women’s retailers contacted for this report were reluctant to discuss sizing or the role of retailers in the code, with one stating they would “prefer to steer clear of the body image debate for now”.
Sportsgirl was most vocal in its support for the code and the body image cause in its business. Sportsgirl strategic brand manager Prue Thomas said its most-sold sizes are 10 to 12, followed evenly by the other sizes. It expanded its size spectrum 18 months ago, in response to consumer demand.
“Our customers asked for it and we had a responsibility to listen to this request based on our healthy body image stance,” she said. “Our collections span from size six to 16 and as far as I know we are one of the few youth fashion brands in Australia to do that.”
In addition, Thomas said sales staff are trained to find flattering garments for all body shapes and to use appropriate, positive language with customers when offering fitting advice. “It is certainly not about size,” she said.