Off the record

 

There’s smoke and mirrors, and then there’s smoke, mirrors, knives, daggers and another day in the ragtrade.

We begin in the AM with something not entirely sinister, but deceptive none the less.

Browsing through archived resumes for a job vacancy since filled, an industry associate of mine notices an applicant who has gone on to helm a high-end, fairly high-profile fashion label.

This particular designer often references their education at Central Saint Martins as a key turning point in their creative cycle; this is, after all, an academy which has churned out the likes of Alexander McQueen, Paul Smith and Stella McCartney.

In spite of breathless media coverage of this esteemed education, however, the resume reveals said designer did not partake in a fashion degree but a six-week illustration course.

There is nothing wrong with this on face value. But in a sector  plagued by technical skills shortages, it speaks volumes about the public perception of fashion and the issues buyers have to contend with seasonally. Quality manufacturing knowledge is paramount.

Being a designer involves more than the creation of beautiful illustrations: it is a thorough understanding of garment construction, particularly for local designers who often operate as sole traders.

This means years of training and equally important, years of industry experience.
We conclude in the PM with a case that is scheduled to be heard before court early next year. This set of smoke and mirrors is of an entirely darker shade.

Under the advice of lawyers, the designer involved has been advised against going public until the matter is heard. We’ll call him/her Mr or Mrs Silent.

Mr or Mrs Silent specialises in ethical, sustainable fashion. As part of this commitment, the designer recently approached an Australian supplier and manufacturer with purportedly “green” credentials.

Purportedly.

Not only does the designer now claim he/she received non-certified organic cotton, but the care labels incorrectly listed the fabric content.

The order fulfillment was also incorrect. Ragtrader will be on hand to cover proceedings when they reach court.

In the meantime, however, there does seem to be a clear lesson here. Smoke and mirrors work well in aspirational fashion glossies, but in an industry this small, cards should be clearly laid out on the table, whether they’re covered in pretty illustrations or not.

Letters to the editor: page 25.