No French resistance to Oz
Australian lingerie and swimwear companies proved they rank amongst the world's best at the recent Lyon Mode City trade show. Gemma Hornett reports from France.
More than 530 lingerie brands and 470 beachwear labels exhibited at last month's Lyon Mode City instalment.
Countries represented at the three-day event, staged from September 3 to 5 at the Eurexpo in Lyon, South East France, included the UK, the US, Colombia, and several Eastern European nations such as Slovenia, Romania, Poland and Ukraine.
Although European companies dominated the exhibition area, Australia was well represented by some of the country's most successful beachwear, swimwear and lingerie labels, all of which attracted keen interest from international buyers.
Sydney-based intimate apparel companies Pleasure State and Julianne and Gold Coast-based Sally Jones exhibited in the lingerie hall and Australian swimwear and surf labels Jets, Seafolly, Rip Curl and O'Neill erected large stands in the swimwear section.
The event also incorporated the Interfiliere fair featuring 400 manufacturers of fabrics and trimmings for intimates.
Official attendance figures had not been released at time of press, but Lyon Mode City organiser eurovet said the number of international attendees increased from 55.8 per cent of total visitor numbers in 2004 to 57 per cent in 2005, "due to an increase in the number of visitors from far-flung corners of the globe", including Brazil (up 84 per cent), Russia and Ukraine (up 53 per cent), Canada (up 29 per cent), New Zealand (up 21 per cent), and the US (up 12 per cent).
Visitor numbers from Australia increased by 16 per cent and represented a wide range of retail outlets including department store chains Myer, David Jones and Target, swimwear specialty stores Daneechi Swimwear (Perth), Swimwear Galore (Melbourne) and Josephines (Queensland) and intimate apparel specialists IM Imports and Lin & Barrett.
Several Australian intimate apparel design houses, manufacturers and marketers including Gazal, Pacific Brands and The Skye Group also visited the event to source fabrics and trims, to gain insight to forthcoming international trends and to observe their competitors collections.
Intimacy pays dividends
Flourishing high-end intimate apparel company Pleasure State erected an impressive 54 square metre showroom at Lyon Mode City, inside which it hosted several pre-arranged meetings with existing and potential clients.
Pre-Lyon, the Sydney-based company, established just 18 months ago by lingerie designer Kay Cohen, already distributed to 14 countries.
By the end of day three at Lyon, the company had signed up distributors in seven additional countries - the Ukraine, Estonia, Japan, Singapore, Korea, China and India.
"We have taken on a very large distribution channel in the Ukraine which sells to the top 65 boutiques in the country," said Pleasure State director Justin Davis-Rice.
"Asia is another market which has become big for us as a result of the fair. All the distributors we have signed up sell to all the major department stores [in their respective countries]."
Lyon also provided an opportunity for Pleasure State to raise brand awareness.
"Showing at Lyon is mainly a PR and marketing exercise. We have to be here if we want to be credible as an international brand," said Davis-Rice. "We also have to promote the brand to support our network of distributors and create a forum to educate our customers about how the brand should be presented."
Pleasure State launched its new diffusion line, dubbed White Label, at Lyon and as a result, the collection will be distributed to retailers in every overseas market where the company's black label - which has recently been re-badged Pleasure State Couture Line - is currently represented, with the exception of the US.
Another fledgling women's lingerie company Julianne, which has been in business for just one year, showcased at Lyon for the first time.
"I started the company this time last year when I visited Lyon [Mode City] to shop for lace," explained Julianne designer, Nicky Adamo. "Every fabric I use in my collection I bought here. I only use French lace."
Adamo, who has already secured accounts for Julianne in seven countries outside Australia including the UK, the US, Japan, Hong Kong and Indonesia, took orders from buyers representing stores in Florida, Ibiza and Austria who visited Lyon.
"Trade shows aren't always the best place for writing orders. I find it easier to get back to Sydney and then follow up leads - that's what I'm doing now," said Adamo, who is also in discussions with US retail chains Bloomingdales, Henri Bendel and Victoria's Secret with a view to securing distribution deals with each.
"I am now selling 30 per cent of my collection as ready-to-wear, she said. "Why hide a camisole under clothing when it is so beautiful."
Another first time exhibitor at Lyon, was Sally Jones, whose eponymous women's lingerie brand, launched two years ago, already sells well in the US, the UK, Japan and Northern Europe and boasts more than 40 accounts in Australia.
Her goal at Lyon was to open accounts in France and Italy, which she succeeded in doing.
"I also signed up retailers in Denmark, Sweden, Moscow, Dubai, the UK and US. I am now waiting for confirmation from two leading US retailers for orders for their new enterprises."
En-route to France, Jones visited her agent in Tokyo and secured an account with Japanese department store chain Beams.
Jones, who is based in Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast, said she had visited previous Lyon Mode City and Interfiliere instalments to source her fabrics - particularly French lace and Italian tulles. She decided to participate in Lyon after she exhibited at January's Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris where she secured 30 new accounts.
European buyers are attracted to the "fresh designs" offered by Australian lingerie brands, according to Jones.
"It's amazing how many times French buyers tell me they are sick of French and Italian lingerie because it is all very similar season after season. They really do appreciate what Australian labels have to offer," she said.
"They also like to buy something a little bit saucier and are prepared to push the boundaries whereas US and Australian customers are surprisingly more conservative."
Australian-designed mid-market lingerie brand Chasney Beauty, which showed at Lyon for the fourth time, hoped this year's event would help the company forge partnerships with European agents.
"We are already in talks with distributors in Spain and Italy," explained Chasney Beauty vice president Joe Leung.
The Brisbane-based company, which manufactures its range in China, does not sell in Australia, but already distributes to several retailers Japan, Taiwan, the UK, Israel and Malaysia.
Swimwear success
The two true Australian swimwear labels represented at Lyon - Jets and Seafolly - already boast a multitude of international export markets, but both companies showcased their forthcoming collections at the trade fair to satisfy the curiosity of existing and potential clients and to promote their brands.
Jets, a strong-seller in Northern Europe where the company has offices in the UK and the Netherlands, stocks three swimwear lines Jets White (luxury), Jets Black (core range) and Jets Blue (diffusion). All three ranges are sold in major international department stores and the company is particularly keen to expand its business with the US.
"Our biggest markets are now the UK and the US where we are looking to consolidate," said Jets head of brand strategy Jane Alibrand. "Our best-selling lines [worldwide] are our one and two pieces featuring our signature photographic prints and our plain separates."
Alibrand said Jets took on some new accounts at Lyon, but said the main purpose of exhibiting was to meet with existing clients.
Seafolly launched its second summer range to the Northern Hemisphere market at Lyon.
"It's already sold very well in Australia," said Seafolly founder and director Peter Halas. "We have expanded the outerwear range which is what the European market is demanding. We have three or four new styles incorporating beads and foil print - to provide that bling factor - as well as stripes for a nautical theme."
New export markets for Seafolly include Norway, Sweden and Denmark, which will receive their first drop of stock in March 2006.
"We are also growing fast in Hong Kong - the ex-pat community loves Seafolly," said Halas.
Auckland-based swimwear brand Moontide participated in Lyon Mode City for the first time to attract buyers in southern Europe.
"We are concentrating on developing the brand in Europe," explained David Cosgrove, who heads up Moontide's UK-based European office. "We are already selling in the UK, Ireland, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland and Iceland, so now I am looking to [distribution channels in] Spain, Portugal, France, Austria and Eastern Europe."
Buyers stock up
Myer swimwear buyer Liz Randle visited Lyon Mode City to search for international swimwear brands.
"I identified a gap in the international swimwear portfolio and so I visited Lyon last year and started negotiating with a few brands. This year, I've sealed the deals," she said.
Although Randle declined to disclose brand names, she revealed she had placed orders for two top-end labels - one from the US and the other from Europe.
"The US brand isn't currently available in the Australian market and so it will be sold exclusively in Myer, probably in 50 per cent of our stores. We have secured department store exclusivity for the other brand, which is only sold in three boutiques nationwide. This will be stocked in our city stores," she said.
The European label is aimed at women aged 35-plus and retail price points start at $500.
"This will represent the most top-end brand we stock," said Randle.
The US collection will fill the gap in Myer's contemporary swimwear category. Targeted at women aged 30 to 45, the range will retail upwards of $150 for a one-piece.
Australia's adept swimwear specialty stores also placed orders with new clients at Lyon.
Denise Price, the owner of Daneechi Swimwear in Subiaco, Perth, found two new European labels to add to her wide-ranging portfolio - Red Point from Spain and Nicole Olivier from France.
The Red Point collection is suitable for 15 to 45-year-olds and features swimsuits assembled from a "unique combination" of prints, textures and finishes. The Nicole Olivier brand is targeted at women aged 20 to 45 and comprises sheer body-shaping lycras.
"They both offer something different to other the brands that I stock. The styling and the finishes are uniquely European, but the cut is such that it will still sell within Australia," she said. "The European cuts are in much lighter weight fabrics, and generally have less construction than US and Australian brands."
A third time visitor to Lyon, Price said it was important to attend the fair to view the forthcoming collections she already stocks.
"I go over to see labels such as Miraclesuit, Gottex, Maryan, Rebecca and Sunflair to place orders for the following season. I can view these ranges in Australia, but it is much easier to do so in Lyon because the whole range is showcased and there is often more than one model wearing the garments, which makes the selection process quicker."
Price re-ordered Sunflair, Gottex, Miraclesuit, Fantasie, Freya, Rebecca and Maryan Mehlhorn at Lyon.
She also designs and manufactures the Daneechi swimwear range and sources most of her printed nylon lycras at Lyon, she revealed.
Jan Ingersole who runs four Melbourne-based Swimwear Galore stores catering to men, women and children of all ages, said demand for plus-size swimwear has taken off in the past year.
"I've come to Lyon to source swimwear in F and G cups because they are difficult to find in Australia," said Ingersole. "I have been coming to Lyon for 13 years to source product that I can't buy at home."
Lyon regular Josephine Matthews, who runs four Josephines swimwear store in Queensland attended Lyon to source swimwear ranges that will whet the appetite of her broad customer range - men and women aged 16 to 80, many of whom are international tourists visiting the Queensland coast.
"Australians will wear one swimsuit a day for a variety of activities, whereas the Europeans may change their swimwear three or four times a day," she said. "I need to sell a variety of labels to meet these demands."
Trend-spotters
Australian designers and the research and development teams of large Australian intimate apparel and swimwear companies also attended Lyon.
They included Suzen Hinchey, research and development designer for Bonds Underwear, owned by Melbourne-based Pacific Brands.
"I visit Lyon to observe the new season trends. I was mainly interested in the new fibre, fabrics, trim and machinery technology presented at Interfiliere. It is extremely important to Bonds to witness what the best of the world has to offer and then adapt that for the Australian consumer," she said.
Joanne Day, divisional manager for Oroton Intimate, Morrissey Underwear and Trent Nathan Lingerie at Sydney-based Gazal Corp concurred that it was important to attend Lyon in order to "keep up to date with technological advancements in fabrications".
"I go to source new laces and embroideries for the development of exclusive lines, to forge relationships with suppliers and to meet up with makers from China," she said.
Day revealed she had sourced "a fantastic new padding for bras" which she claimed would improve fit and comfort.
"We have also developed a lovely new facing elastic that will bare the Oroton logo, sourced superb new embroideries from an Austrian supplier, some new moulding fabrications for the Trent Nathan and Oroton ranges and stunning new trinkets to adorn the Morrissey product," she said.
Cheetah Swimwear, owned by Brazin Ltd, was also represented at Lyon. Designer Heidi Vandervord (At Interfiliere she bought printed lycras from Italian fabric companies Lyontess, Liantex and Luciaantex and French company, Robert Vernet.
"I will often buy the prints on paper and then get them printed in China to keep costs down," Vandervord explained. She also bought matt lycras from Carvico, an Italian company which is represented in Australia, as well as ABS trims from a number of European suppliers.
Cheetah recently secured its first export market in its 25-year history, after signing several new accounts in the UK.
Vandervord said Cheetah would participate in next year's Lyon Mode City with a view to securing more international accounts.
Gazal's Joanne Day revealed that some divisions within the company were considering showing at Lyon next year, signalling an attempt by the company to explore export markets for the first time.
Perth-based swimwear brand Sunseeker is also planning to participate in the 2006 Lyon instalment.
"Because we launched into the UK, Germany and Scandinavia this year, we decided not to show at Lyon until we had a more substantial agent base to support the enquiries. There are literally retailers there from every corner of the globe who attend, so you have to be quite strategic about who you will say yes to," said Sunseeker Swimwear general manager Simon Rice. "Lyon is one of the more expensive shows to attend, which is a shame, because it keeps out some of the younger more innovative brands - and I know that is what all the international buyers go their to find. If you can afford to exhibit, it is an excellent show, as long as you do your home work beforehand."
HEADSHOT LIST:
1. Photo of Kay Cohen on page 11 of July 1 2005 issue. (Pleasure State)
2. Nicky Adamo.jpg (Julianne)
3. Sally Jones.jpg
4. Joe Leung.jpg (Chasney Beauty)
5. For Jets, 6. Kerrie& Peter.jpg (Seafolly)
7. David Cosgrove (Moontide)
8. Liz Randle (Myer)
9. Denise Price.jpg
10. Jan Ingersole.jpg
11. Josephine Matthews.jpg
12. Heidi Vandervord
OTHER
Hall7.jpg
Aussie1.jpg
Pleasure State2.jpg
Jetsstand.jpg
hall6.jpg
Cavalli.jpg or Cavalli with Galliano.jpg