Love, lust and lingerie

Mark Twain was no fool. So when he uttered those now immortal words: "the finest clothing made is a person's skin but, of course, society demands something more than this", it is clear he was referring to the sweeping phenomenon of high-end lingerie, as Tracey McEldowney reports.


They might not be the world leader in diplomatic relations and, okay, their cricketing prowess may leave a little something to be desired. But there are two things the French do extremely well: recognising the dietary advantages of eating snails and pieces of frog and appreciating the value of quality lingerie.
But while it is clear garden variety creatures will probably never really take pride of place at Australian tables, it seems we have at least learnt a lesson or two about the importance of wearing nice underwear.
Intimate apparel boutiques and body wear designers agree demand for premium-end bras, knickers, corsets and chemises has never proved so strong. Specialist independent designers such as Roberta Glass, Sally Jones, Jessie Tucker and Julia Smith are rushing to keep on top of orders while boutiques such as Adelaide's Original Sin and Melbourne's Smitten Kitten barely have time to replenish stock.
Even the larger lingerie brands such as Triumph have joined in on the act, working hard to introduce more stylish, fashionable and sexy product.
But while it is never easy to predict what causes a surge in a particular sector's popularity, it's fair to say that just like their French counterparts, Australian women believe it has little to do with practicability and almost everything to do with sexiness and originality.
Mona Dekker, of the Sydney office of international trend research and design agency Promostyl, says the increasing popularity of the intimacy market is being driven by an internal need by consumers to purchase things that are "special and unique".
Dekker says the act of buying gives consumers a respect for values. Women today are confident with their bodies and know have clear ideas about styling and colour. The consumer unconsciousness knows what she wants and respects it, she says.
"The desire to wear beautiful lingerie is increasingly strong. Sixty-three per cent of consumers buy luxury goods [because] luxury gives the buyer something special, something unique. The intimacy market has always catered for this feel and now it's accessible for more people. "Overall our times are extremely feminine so we see products that are very sensual and being much softer."
Lovable Lingerie designer Jonathon Yeomans, who helped create the brand's Intimate collection, says the influence of television shows such as Desperate Housewives have had an enormous impact on the growth of the sector.
"Women are no longer afraid to flaunt their sexuality, and see it as a fun, positive part of their personality, rather than a negative. You can still be sexual, but also be intelligent and be taken seriously."
Sally Jones, who operates her own self-titled label specialising in what she terms "boudoir-chic", believes consumers shopping in this rapidly growing sector are driven by aesthetics. TyJones, who is stocked in 40 boutiques across Australia, Europe, Japan and the US, also says customers who shop in this sector share a lot of traits - not least of which means they are usually "ageless" but also quality and style-conscious.
"People who buy my range are usually the type of people who want to be seen. Is it fair to say they are not the shy, retiring types? They might be on the inside but they're not in the bedroom.
"[Wearing lingerie as outerwear] doesn't mean women have to go out there looking like they're into bondage, it's just they're beginning to opt for some items that appear a little more racy."
Unlike consumers at the opposite end of the scale, Jones - who prices her garments in the "mid to high" range - says consumers who source high-end lingerie, often have little regard for price.
"Sometimes the prices are astronomical, but it seems to be the women who are looking for that [type of garment] will pay because they appreciate that you've gone to that extra creative level to create the garment."
Melbourne lingerie boutique Smitten Kitten owner Jasmine Hickman, whose store stocks mainly Australasian designers with a few French and Italian imports, agrees.
Hickman, who has stock priced from $60 for a pair of knickers to $670-plus for European-designed corsets, says women are often "sucked" into buying a product because it has the right label attached to it or has received a favourable mention in a women's glossy magazine.
Because some women think nothing of spending $80 to $300 on a synthetic bra made in China, those who design or manufacture for the premium end of the market have a distinct advantage, she says.
"I guess [women generally] just need to appreciate something for the actual product and how it makes them feel both physically and emotionally. Consumers are not generally aware of what makes a quality product, such as the difference between a pure silk satin and a synthetic satin and the effect this has on their bodies. On the other hand, many do and these [generally constitute the bulk of] my regular customers."
Melbourne designer Jessie Tucker, who before launching her own label worked for three years as a costume designer for theatre and circus, also argues shoppers who prefer to spend at boutiques will always go where they know they can find quality rather than just quantity.
"I also agree that consumers know what they want, originality is definitely valued and so is a story. If a shopping trip is pleasurable and you are given individual attention and learn a little about the history of the brand, the whole experience is going to be a lot more memorable. Garments hold the story of how they were acquired, sometimes longer than they hold their shape."
However Triumph product manager Shirley Jones (no relation) says while maintaining fashionability is important across all Triumph brands, including its premium-end brand Valisere, the level of fashion influence in the range will depend on whom the product is targeted.
While she agrees there has been a strong trend over the past few seasons towards more feminine lingerie, Shirley argues price pays a significant factor at the point of purchase.
"We must remember that customers are generally price sensitive and will not always pay an increased price for the latest fashion trend. Increasingly today, women demand that trend influences are engineered into bras at similar pricepoints to those currently in the market."
Yeomans also takes a more practical approach to the issue of pricing.
"[Our] consumer appreciates beautiful fabrics, and appreciates comfort and a great fit, but she also realises she doesn't have to pay premium price for these products."
For Sally Jones, at least, it seems there will always be a clear distinction between the lingerie customer she is targetting and those who are not interested in purchasing at the premium end of the market.
"Will there always be demand for the cheaper, mass-produced market? Yes. But I don't want to compete in it."