Looking ahead
The shape of things to come... what's in store for autumn/winter 2008/09?
WGSN senior editor womenswear Mark Watson and Think Tank editor Ruth Marshall-Johnson
We embrace the idea of a slower, more contemplative attitude towards high-end fashion The high-street multiples and trend companies who feed fashion are ever more quickly identifying and translating emerging trends, putting an inordinate amount of pressure on fashion companies to come up with the new goods over and over again.
A more relaxed and contemplative attitude taken to high-end creativity and the evolution of designers' ideas and collections will allow for true representations of their visions, as well as dexterity and expertise in their particular apparel genres.
We applaud Azzedine Alaia who takes this approach and presents when he is good and ready - no compromise on beautiful quality, perfection of cut, construction and fit and a more desirable product for everyone concerned.
We are starting to see new technologies and vibrant creative minds colliding to define a visionary fashion message, for the first time in the longest time we are excited by what is happening on the catwalk.
By creating an exuberant design laboratory, corrupt traditional guidelines to create new, exciting, discordant style concepts.
Build on past knowledge to evolve a new and diverse style-vocabulary that promotes future design evolution, while escaping the tyranny of previous historical styles."
Nicolas Dubost, project manager for French trend and forecasting agency Nelly Rodi
We will have the come back of the exciting 1910 to 1920s spirit with fluid, light look composed of layered veils adopting the details of the world of dance and lingerie. This sulphurous wardrobe will be balanced by an Edwardian look, elaborated and ornamented and a little bit austere. Finally poetry still remains with mini-dresses, tunics over slender legs and long pullovers.
Mudpie Design CEO Fiona Jenvey
Collective Statement: Looks at a move away from decadence to a more rationalist style, and reflects the current interest in both the Bauhaus and Dada creative movements of the early 20th Century. The dada movement has been updated by the need to collage personal messages, club flyers and other forms of visual pollution around our towns and cities. While Bauhaus looks at a clean plastic aesthetic and a bright colour palette with clean type faces.
Custom Culture: Takes us into popular culture to look at the interplay between customisation and technology, with an interest in the 'look at me' generation of teenage bloggers and residents of online virtual worlds such as Second Life. The importance of this trend has emerged as printed media, T.V. and the human voice have lost out to the online universe and text messaging. The palette for this trend is dark and moody with acid highlights
Expressionist: This is a fusion of Bolly Nouveau, taking in the popular culture of Bollywood film, the Indian luxury goods market and Bangra club music. It explores the similarities between all this, and the work of Catalan artists such as Gaudi, as well as Hispanic influences from emergent South America. This trend is based on the growing importance of India with the global economy and the luxury sector. In terms of colour we are looking at burnt and sultry shades.
Revivalist: An eco friendly natural trend focusing on Scandinavia, and the influence that the region currently has over world wide trends. From mid century furniture designers such as Arne Jacobsen to the Finnish (Lapland) Sami rap artists who are working hard to preserve their culture whilst promoting it via rap music and festivals. The palette here is very neutral, but underpinned by marine blues and a striking crimson highlight.
Scout director Tony Bannister
Lots of Decade's Hunting.
1920s, '40s, '80s for inspiration but in a new fresh way. ie 1920s deco prints on modern sweater dresses and sexy blouses.
Return of 1940's shouldered jackets and slim pencil skirts.
1980's colour blocking, short lengths and techno sportswear revival.
SCOUT predicts after last summer's obsession with of the sweater dress with the footless tights - we forecast next winter to be all about the return of the trouser. Wide leg, higher waist's and slouchy, baggy man style looks are back.
Promostyl China consultant Fériel Karoui
Our autumn/winter 2008/09 general theme is on beauty. In a world where everything is "design" (from a spoon to a boat) we need to think what are the new aesthetic codes?
So we will have a very daring and outrageous orientation with a mix and match of off-beat bourgois codes, a question about the "intellectual beauty", with vintages tones colors, a question about the new ecological theme, with stone color and rough fabrics, and a question about the technology, a balance between design and intuitive technology.