MELBOURNE: Designers hungry for export knowledge found themselves taking invaluable advice from three industry leaders at the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival Designer Forum, writes Belinda Smart.
Australian designer Megan Park, Liberty London creative consultant Yasmin Sewell and Vogue UK fashion features editor Park, who launched her self-named label in London in the '90s, said luck and persistence had played equal parts in her success.
"When I launched I printed beautiful invitations and sent them to all the stores in London I wanted to stock my product, but I had absolutely no takers. So I contacted Vogue and luckily I got through to the right person and I was promised a page. I remember rushing to a nearby red phone box and calling Liberty to let them know that Vogue was interested. That got the ball rolling; the Liberty buyer bought it and then introduced me to Harvey Nichols and before I knew it, I was being Sewell confirmed her high profile retail roles - including running her own London boutique and buying for renowned store Browns - had seen her launch numerous labels of international renown, including Rick Owens and jeans label Acne.
"However sadly many talented people don't succeed. You either need strong business sense yourself or if you don't have it, it's important to recognise that and get yourself a good business partner."
Fostering loyal relationships with retailers also paid off, she added.
"There have been labels I've worked with that have gone to other stockists behind my back or dishonoured the relationship in some way and that can be damaging. By contrast I have a really positive ongoing relationship with some labels, including Acne. We collaborate on promotions and events together and it works well for both parties."
She also warned against reaching for the stars too quickly.
"It's important to know that [a designer] has business sense and can deliver the clothes on time. I've learned from experience that you can buy designers when they're too young and not ready for retail, so timing is very important."
Holt, a native Melburnian, confirmed her role at Vogue UK had seen her promote numerous Australian brands. Young brands should focus on creating a "good look book that need not cost the earth" and a product that would speak for itself.
"I'll admit that I am patriotic. I want to help Australian labels but at the same time if they're not good enough they won't make it."