Europe at their feet
Now it seems Australians - at least the females of the species - are in for another treat, with the launch of Spanish women's footwear brand Jocomomola by New South Wales based importer and distributor The Pilot Group - which trades as The Natural Shoe Company.
The Jocomomola range, designed by renowned Spanish clothing and footwear designer Sybilla - is the "same flavour as Camper but younger and more feminine," according to Pilot Group director Sean Gough, who Gough's plan is to use a tried and tested formula of promotion through consumer press editorials and a well supported retail client to ensure Jocomomola becomes a hot footwear Before capturing the imagination of consumers however, the challenge is to get retailers to back the brand - which is being shown by agents across the country and is scheduled for retail release in August.
"It [Jocomomola] has a very particular look so we're cherry "The important thing is to get retailers to have the courage to stock it. Often independent retailers are reluctant to take risks, but then people [consumers] on the street, who've seen the brand overseas get frustrated because they're not getting what they want."
This isn't the first time The Natural Shoe Company has taken a punt, and then seen it fly. Gough and his wife and co-director Karyne Gough effectively led the way in bringing espadrilles - those casual European shoes made of canvas fabric with a rope sole - to Australia over a decade ago, when they started importing espadrilles from France.
Since then they haven't looked back.
"At the time neither of us was in fashion but probably due to good timing the espadrilles got a lot of interest. Then in the following years we were riding the crest of the wave."
Since its first foray into espadrilles, the company has also diversified into cowboy boots, including Spanish label Tony Mora and a range of US brands. This has secured a strong year round business that will doubtless be enhanced by Jocomomola's winter footwear offering.
Any concern however that espadrilles would not provide the company with standout business is certainly unwarranted, with the dominance this summer of woven wedge heeled shoes - a fashion take on the traditional espadrilles - looking set to continue well into summer 06/07.
"The response [to espadrilles] from fashion editors and consumers alike has been terrific," says Gough.
Thanks to the growing popularity of the rope-soled shoes, the company is now the foremost Australian wholesaler of espadrilles, with core stockists numbering about 100 and set to increase.
The Natural Shoe Company prides itself on importing the genuine article - espadrilles made by hand in France and Spain - and until recently stocked three brands; French label Pare Gabia and Spanish brands Juncal Aguirre and Castaner, all of which boast a time-honoured heritage.
"Pare Gabia is a top brand in France, stocked in all the major stores including Galeries Lafayette and aimed at a younger market. Juncal Aguirre is a smaller range and looks simpler. It uses plainer colours, is more comfortable and is aimed at an older age group. Castaner - which is more like a traditional shoe - has a heritage dating back to the early 1700s and its own boutiques in Madrid, Barcelona and Paris."
Mindful of the need to adapt to a constantly evolving market, the company recently took the decision to rebadge Juncal Aguirre under its own Natural Shoe Company banner, because "Juncal Aguirre doesn't really have much resonance with Australians".
It will also launch Pare Gabia sub brand Chouchou for next summer, in a bid to broaden the spectrum of labels available to retailers.
The company now has a full offering across a range of price points, with Chouchou retailing at $45 to 150, Pare Gabia at $45 to $280, Natural Shoe at $105 to 120, Castaner at $165 to 350 and Jocomomola at $60 to $315.
"Because espadrilles are very popular it's important to have a range of different brands to offer different retailers. If you've got three different independents in a small regional town and they're all stocking the same shoes it doesn't work well for them," Gough explains.
Responding to the needs of independent boutiques - which make up the bulk of the company's clients - has always been the company's priority.
"Chains tend to import their espadrilles using direct sourcing. In the mid nineties we were going through bigger stores, but it created problems with the smaller retailers who are our bread and butter. We don't want to be held hostage to department stores, who are very demanding and also tend to discount, while we work on tight margins and can't afford to do that. We really want the smaller retailers to keep healthy margins."
This objective - and a possible distribution deal for Jocomomola clothing - is likely to keep The Natural Shoe Company busy over the medium to longer term. But just in case Gough doesn't have enough on his plate he has a more abiding agenda; to extend the espadrille's influence so far that Australians - women in particular - view it as a footwear basic comparable to the trusty thong.
This is no mean feat, but Gough believes it's achievable if the company avoids pinning its hopes on the fickle world of fashion.
"We position our espadrilles not as fashion footwear but as generic footwear that will work very well alongside fashion.
"We'd like to see espadrilles get as established in Australia as they are in Europe. They're perfect for this climate and we'd like to see more Australians trying them."
So much for the female of the species, although when it comes to the Australian male, he is less optimistic.
"I think Australian men find the idea of espadrilles a bit wussy, despite the fact that prominent men like the last Pope, [artist Pablo] "There's a great photograph of John Wayne in a cowboy hat, carrying a purse on his shoulder, wearing nothing but tight swimmers and espadrilles, but somehow even someone as macho as John Wayne doesn't seem to cut it with Australian men."
That said, if current fashion forecasts are anything to go by, there's reason to hope that Sheilas will do enough espadrille shopping for both genders in the summers to come.
