• Image via nzfashionweek.com.
    Image via nzfashionweek.com.
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As New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW) kicks off, ragtrader.com.au shines a spotlight on participating designers. Federation's Jenny Joblin opens up on a tumultuous period. 

What is a break-through moment you are most proud of?

After a hectic few years, this is a pretty great moment. Doing Fashion Week with Federation, while our summer range is said to be our best collection to date.

What is the biggest career challenge you've faced and how did you overcome it?

The issues that we had in 2014 [tax dodging charges and liquidation] showed me the reality of being a director and the consequences taught me lessons around making sure I know exactly what is going on in the business. All aspects. Overcoming the challenges has been taking one bit at a time, the best I can, and not running.

What do you see as the biggest challenge facing New Zealand designers?

Competing in a global market. With online shopping and a lot of the big vertical retailers coming here, maintaining your point of difference is really important. 

What do you see as the biggest opportunity?

Having the opportunity to be able to do what I love creatively with an amazing team and have a great label and business.

How many pieces are in your average collection and what are the average price points?

$100 would be an average, with tee shirts at $70 and most other garments a bit more.  

How many wholesale accounts and/or stores does your brand currently operate?

We have one flagship store in Takapuna attached to our workroom and around 80 wholesale accounts.  

What is the inspiration behind your collection at NZFW?

Birds versus bees. It started with a random thought about where did the concept / expression of 'the birds and the bees' even come from. I spent quite a lot of time in the middle of the night thinking about it, thinking about illustrated birds and bees flying around a bit. That developed into the thought of them on garments. I always like the mix of an element of beautiful with something strong and a little bit mixed up. Birds versus bees sums it up from Federation angle.  

What are some of the core fabrications used?

Core fabrications will always start with denim and cotton knits. For winter, we have sourced and developed some amazing brocades, used different wool felt fabrics as well as some cool sheer fabrics and solid shirtings and drills. We also have got a bit water proof which we haven't done for a while.  

What about key embellishments and detailing?

Detailing comes down to artwork and good strong designs and cuts for us.  I love the yardage prints we have for winter and the appliqué of the embroidery in the birds and bees and also in the fabrication.

Where will the range be manufactured?

Our clothing is made in China. We still run a lot of our printing through New Zealand.

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